Guide to Using Prismacolor Magic Rubber for Artistic Excellence

By admin

Prismacolor Magic Rubber is a versatile eraser that is widely used by artists and other creative individuals. With its unique formulation, the Magic Rubber can effectively remove pencil, charcoal, and pastel marks without smudging or leaving behind any residue. This eraser is known for its ability to erase cleanly and precisely, making it a preferred choice among professionals and hobbyists alike. One of the standout features of the Prismacolor Magic Rubber is its magical property of being able to restore and revitalize dull or worn-out erasers. This means that when the eraser becomes dirty or ineffective, it can be easily revived by simply kneading and manipulating it in one's hands. This unique characteristic extends the lifespan of the eraser, making it a cost-effective option for artists who frequently use erasers.


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Wiccan golden candy paint

This unique characteristic extends the lifespan of the eraser, making it a cost-effective option for artists who frequently use erasers. Moreover, the Prismacolor Magic Rubber has a soft and pliable texture that allows for smooth erasing. Its slight tackiness ensures that erased particles adhere to the eraser, preventing them from smearing or smudging the surrounding area.

Clear coat before candy?

I am sure this has been covered somewhere else but I couldnt find it. Is it a good idea to clear and wet sand before applying candy? I have heard it will make it look deeper.

chopolds

Member

It's definitely not necessary, I've done dozens of cars without doing this. But I will say this, it does eliminate the little pools of candy that can give you tiny darker spots in the paint, if you do seal the metallic base first. I know this because when I do graphics over candy, I DO seal it first with clear, then wait a day or 2 and sand, then apply graphics and clear topcoat. I don't think it looks deeper, but it does get rid of the small dark spots.
If you do have too rough a finish on your basecoat, it would be a good idea to do this. Or if you use a large metalflake for a base.

thackeral444

New member

It sounds as though if price and time aren't an issue, then you might as well clear before candy. I will be using small metal flake over the base and before the candy-so I guess I will just clear and wet sand and see if it makes things a little easier. BTW it will be HOK Kandy Base Coat not Koncentrate.

chopolds

Member

Kandy basecoat is a whole different story. I would try a test piece first, before you waste your time. In my (very little) experience with KBC, I put it over a white base, and it wasn't very transparent. You might not be able to see much of the silver metallic under the coats of KBC. I know with 3-4 coats, it's pretty opaque.
But the issue with clear over base is. you have to be careful off your film thickness when doing candy jobs. You don't want to thick a paint build up happening. Adding a couple coats of clear can be kind of thick. Unless you use an intercoat clear, which has much less build.

thackeral444

New member
Good Advice. Thanks

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member

If you are looking for a deep rich looking paint job do not use candy basecoat. I've always called this a painters cheater candy paint. This is not a true candy. this is your candy type paint but has pearl in it. this make is easier for a noooobie painter to do a candy job, but it's not a TRUE candy.
Candy is a clear with dye in it. You spray this over a base which give you that rich look.
having pearl in the candy midcoat just kills the depth since you are not actually seeing through that clear/dye coat.

Spray your base, coat of flake. then you can clear like chopolds says and you mentioned. Resand, then you can add your candy. BUT do it with a true candy. I like using the UK candies. I only use the KK on the smaller or spot jobs.
You can bypass that first clearing over the base and flake ONLY if you have a nice flat surface. Again like ChopOlds said if you have a spec of dirt or even a flake that is lying upright the candy will build around it thus giving you darker spots.
BUT if you do it with the KBC (fake candy), this will be a LITTLE more forgiving, but you'd lose your depth.

thackeral444

New member

I definitely understand TAZ, but I am definitely one of those guys they had in mind when they developed the KBC. I have thought about spraying a little KK over the KBC--but I am not sure. I have never sprayed kandy and am a little intimidated by it since I have a strict budget and cannot afford any f@*k-ups and do-overs. The KBC sounds like the best choice for my needs on this project. I think I will clear after the base and flakes just to make sure I have a really flat surface. Thanks for advice.

chopolds

Member

In one of the few times I used KBC, I think it was Pagan Gold, I was very disappointed in it's color, and it's look. lack of any kind of depth or transparency. While the owner was not as disappointed, I just HAD TO put a couple coats of real Candy Pagan Gold (UK, not KK, that's just a dye not paint) and it looked much better depth wise, but the color darkened up quite a bit.

TAZ

Administrator
Staff member

Before I read ChopOlds post, and reading your post, I would suggest not adding the kk over the kbc, as CO mentioned, it will darken it.

I've always liked spraying the UK though because you can see the results of what it is your are doing quicker and better than the kk since it's glossy.

When spraying the UK, you just have to pretend you are spraying clearcoat, but you have to pay a little more attention to what and where you are applying it.

Also, since you haven't sprayed candy, I would suggest not using the flakes. Sometimes this just won't work out. Then you can bypass the middle clearcoat. This is up to you though.
You just have to make sure you apply your base fairly decent without any bigger dirt specs.

“Trust the process!” Mr. Barron’s 1967 GT500 project pictured here in four steps… • Final prime • Sealer • Base coat & Stripes • Clear coat . See More See Less
Prismacolor magic rubber

This makes it ideal for precise erasing in detailed drawings or when correcting small mistakes. Another advantage of the Prismacolor Magic Rubber is its long-lasting performance. The eraser is designed to last for a considerable period, even with regular use. Its durability and quality have made it a trusted erasing tool for professional artists, students, and anyone who frequently uses graphite or colored pencils. Overall, the Prismacolor Magic Rubber is an excellent eraser option for artists and enthusiasts who value clean and precise erasing. Its unique formulation, ability to restore worn erasers, soft texture, and long-lasting performance make it a standout choice in the market. Whether you are sketching, drawing, or working on mixed media projects, the Prismacolor Magic Rubber is a reliable tool that will help you achieve the desired results..

Reviews for "Perfecting Your Art with Prismacolor Magic Rubber Techniques"

1. John - 2/5 stars - I was really disappointed with the Prismacolor magic rubber. The texture was way too soft for my liking, and it left a lot of residue on the paper. I found it difficult to erase certain types of pencil marks, and it would often smudge the graphite, making a mess on my artwork. I ended up having to switch to a different eraser for better results. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this eraser for professional use.
2. Emily - 1/5 stars - The Prismacolor magic rubber was a complete waste of money for me. Not only did it erase poorly, but it also tore the paper and left behind a sticky residue. It was extremely frustrating trying to remove pencil marks, as the eraser would crumble and make a mess. I had to constantly clean my artwork after using this eraser. I regret purchasing it and would advise others to look for a better-quality eraser.
3. Sarah - 2/5 stars - I was really excited to try out the Prismacolor magic rubber, but it unfortunately didn't live up to my expectations. The eraser felt very soft and didn't provide a clean and precise erasing experience. It smudged the pencil marks, making it difficult to get rid of them completely. I also noticed that it wore down quickly, and I had to constantly sharpen it to maintain its effectiveness. I wouldn't recommend this eraser for anyone looking for accurate and clean erasing.

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