Exploring the Magic of Ptoxy Printers: Discovering the Future of Printing

The concept of a magic proxy printer is a fascinating one, as it combines the magical and technological realms in a unique way. This type of printer is not your ordinary printer; it has the ability to bring digital designs to life through the power of magic. A magic proxy printer works by harnessing the energy of magic to transform a digital image or design into a physical object. This process involves the printer reading the digital file and translating it into a magical language. Once the design has been converted, the printer uses its magical capabilities to create the object layer by layer. The magic used by the printer can vary depending on the specific model and manufacturer.

THE Best option on the internet to create a really cool CUBE !

I have also found that leaving the tape adhered to the card while spraying with varnish can help control some of the unwanted warping in humid environments. Ok, I tried stirring and also applying the Tile and Digital media separately, and that seems to have solved the lumps, but I m still getting streaks that are noticeable even after the final varnish.

The magic used by the printer can vary depending on the specific model and manufacturer. Some printers may utilize elemental magic, such as fire or water, to mold and shape the object. Others may rely on sigils or symbols to invoke specific spells or enchantments that bring the design to life.

Reve's Magic Card Art

* InkJet printer. I use an HP Envy 120.

* Any Glossy InkAid or Golden Digital Ground Clear. Make sure you don't buy any Matte InkAids, only Glossy versions work. *Update* The digital ground appears to be discontinued so use the InkAid, its the same stuff.

* Digital proxies can be found at Z's Proxy factory or check out my video on how to make them yourself.

* If you make your own proxies you'll need Matrix Bold and Magic Symbol and MPlantin fonts. Also here is a list of templates.

2) Spray the entire surface of the card with the Krylon Matte Finish and allow the card to dry until dry to the touch.

3) Take the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and stir it up. Apply it to the card and allow to dry until dry to the touch.

6) Hide the border and unhide the artwork and text on your computer and print the card. Place the card in front of a heater for about 30 minutes to ensure that the ink drys fully and will not bleed.

FAQ

Q: My print didn't turn out right, what should I do?

A: Check out common mistakes people make.

A: No, but you wouldn't want to they are low quality.

A: Try using two thin coats instead of just one coat. If the ink is wet on the surface that means it needs more substance to seep into. This is especially true for dark inks. See 2) in common mistakes people make.

A: Sure its actually easier if you mix the two and apply them in one step. Just mix a 50/50 ratio. I just didn't realize this when I made the video.

A: This creates a hydrophobic layer that will prevent the card from warping after applying the next layers.

Q: What is the purpose of the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium?

A: There are two main reasons this layer is applied. Firstly, it acts an adhesive that allows the next layer to be applied without peeling off. Secondly, it acts as a porous layer that allows ink to seep into it. Without this layer darker inks would cake on the surface and bleed. See 1) in common mistakes people make.

Q: What is the purpose of the InkAid?

A: This is the inkjet receptive coating. This material will allow the ink to adhere to the surface of the card. See 3) in common mistakes people make.

Q: I get a bumpy surface when I apply the InkAid?

A: Make sure you shake it well. You can try mixing it with the FolkArt Glass & Tile Medium and apply both in one step. You can also try applying in front of a heater to dry faster.

Q: After I print in Photoshop all these settings come up. What do I do now?

A: I only know what settings to choose if you have an HP Envy 120 after you click "Print" go to "Print Settings -> Paper Type and Quality." Select "HP Photo Paper," select "Best" under "Quality." Then print.

Q: How do you print dark blacks?

A: Printing black is very challenging and requires some skill.

Instead of calibrating the printer it's better to calibrate the images.

The idea is to set the contrast and black values in Photoshop, do a test print, see if it's black enough, then keep doing that until it looks good. Once you've done that then you can use that image as a reference image for anything else that you want to print. Compare any new images you print to the reference image and adjust the black and contrast until it matches and then you'll know your new image will print black correctly.

So the two things you'll want to adjust are (in Photoshop) Image->Adjustments->Brightness and Contrast

And Image ->Adjustments->Selective color. Then adjust the black level for black and gray tones.

Make sure to right click the image layer and rasterize it before hand.

If you get bleeding make sure to use at least two layers of coating. Also, sometimes what looks like bleeding is actually just a symptom of printing an image that is too low resolution. Most of the images I print are absolutely massive resolution and I get very nice dark crisp lines.

Feedback? Email me at chess314 at Gmail dot com

174 comments:

could you post a video of how you make the Photoshop files for your proxies. like how you get the text boxes and the colors for them and all that? Reply Delete

GIMP works as well, but you can get a free copy of Photoshop CS2
http://www.adobe.com/downloads/other-downloads.html Delete

i have the fonts and symbols i'm just very confused how you get the text boxes the right size format colors and all that Reply Delete

also i noticed in the psd there is a font called MPlantin. do you have a download for that font as well not just the matrix bold? Reply Delete

im having a hard time stripping the card any suggestion? the acrds keep going to hell on me Reply Delete

Hi,
I am trying to use this process to print on foil cards. And having mixed results - one card (printed last night) looks fine. But two other (it's more humid today) have ink running and not sticking to the card. Have I messed something up? I am using an HP 8600 printer to do the printing. Thanks in advance, Reply Delete

If you're getting bleeding you may need more glass and tile medium to absorb the ink. However there is a bigger problem with printing over a fool surface. Real foil cards use white ink. I have yet to find a way to get an inkjet to print with white ink. Delete

Doing two coats of glass and tile medium seems to be improving the results significantly. Thanks! Delete

That's exactly what it is. It's ink with a white color. It's not available in home printers. It's a type of printers ink that is used by industrial printing presses to create white images on non white surfaces
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Thanks for the tutorial. I have made many proxies that were far worse than what you are creating. Do these fit into perfect fit sleeves? Reply Delete

It's a couple years later, I am wanting to use a Laser Printer (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/151661/Xerox-Phaser-6510N-Laser-Printer-Color/?ref=463847) specifically. I don't see how it would be low quality. Can you elaborate or would something like that work nowadays? Delete

As far as I know laserjet printers have not advanced much. I can't say exactly why they don't work well for pictures, but they look pretty bad. If you're curious you can verify this for yourself by asking for a test print and comparing it to a real card.
The other issue is that when you print on a real card with a laserjet there can be other issues, but I'm not sure how to solve them. If you can some how find a way to make laserjets work please post it. Delete

Whenever I use acetone to blank the card, the liquid gets into the cardboard and starts tearing it up. What should I do? Reply Delete

Use far less acetone at a time. Apply a drop at a time to the cloth/papertowel you are wiping with Delete

This is great! I've wanted to make partial alters in real mtg cards, like just changing the picture, or changing the white border to black, but in a way that it looked like it way originally printed that way at the factory.
Can I do this with your technique, or is it impossible to print exactly a the right places without screwing up? Reply Delete

Yeah! The links are at the top of my blog http://revesmtgart.blogspot.com/p/how-to-do-full-art-alterations.html

And check out artwork replacements Delete

This is precisely what I was looking for ! Genius!
Thank you! Really, thank you. I'll try not to mess up . :P Delete

Sorry to bother but I have one more question. Do you think that I can use this process to "repair" the back of a Magic card? Like just printing in a few spots in the back that are heavily damaged (not the cardboard itself, mostly just white spots were the ink is missing because of use). If I use the same process for artwork replacements, do you think that it can work, or will there be a notable difference in the colors of the original ink vs the printers ink? I haven't tried it yet but I would greatly appreciate if you could give your expert opinion. :) I have a Epson xp-312, so I have a reasonable 1,200x2,400dpi resolution. Delete

Hi, I'm from Chile and I can't find where I can buy the HP Envy 120 printer, do you think the Epson L120 would do the job as well? Thanks! Reply Delete

Any inkjet printer will work. The most important things to look for in a printer is max resolution and sharpness. I have t personally tried it, but it looks like a fine printer Delete

I need way more jnformation of your application technique and amount used . Having hard time getting consistant good prints and even layers on cards Reply Delete

Hi ! First, thx for the tutorial.
For my 1st attempt, i tried to mix 50/50 folkart medium and golden digital ground. The result is quite awful : i get kind of a white solidish goo, impossible to put that on my card.. Someone knows why ? I'll try to put them separately next time :) Bye ! Reply Delete

So I've been trying this method and I've found that my cards bend like crazy once I put the tile medium on them. Is there any way to keep them from bending? Otherwise, what is your preferred method of flattening them afterwards? Reply Delete

You're probably not spraying enough varnish on them in the first step. The varnish protects the card form warping. Try two layers of varnish. Reply Delete

I can't find the Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium anywhere. What's a good alternative? Amazon is all out. Ty Reply Delete

Ugg I don't know. It's the only product I've tried that worked. I've tried a few clear spray adhesion promoters and those didn't work. Maybe someone else will know? Delete

i know its like 8 months later but also try arts and crafts stores in your area like a michaels or acmoore or even a johannes fabrics
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If I used white digital ground, could I just print over the card without removing with acetone? Reply Delete

Nope. White digital ground straight up doesn't work, even if it did, white is not opaque enough to cover anything. Reply Delete

Do you have a problem with the cards getting stuck in the printer? My printer tends to paper jam even with thin card-stock so I am a little afraid to try this. Is your printer a back-feed? would a back-feed be a good investment if I were to get into this sort of proxy making? Reply Delete

I'm in the process of collecting printer info from readers to eventually do a printer recommendation post. Can you post the name of your printer, I'll be sure to warn ppl about jamming issues with it.

A back feed seems like it might be better, but I have no problems with the HP Envy and it rolls the card Delete

One way to prevent jamming is to make a carrier sheet out of card stock. Print the border only on a sheet of card stock and then carefully cut out the interior of the border with an exacto knife. If you do this right, a standard MTG card should fit tightly in the hole without any play. Use delicate surface frogtape (see my post below) to hold the card in the carrier sheet and feed the whole thing through the printer as though it is one sheet. The thickness of the card stock will feed better through the rollers while the tape forces the card to bend as it goes through. Hope this helps you. Delete

I followed the steps and have an inkjet printer the canon pixma mg6820 and they come out looking like garbage. Very blurry and I printed on high resolution. What am I doing incorrectly? Reply Delete

Theres a lot that could be causing this, if you post more detail I can help. Did you buy white digital ground instead of clear? Delete

I can't get the glass and tile medium to make an even coat. It either has big streaks or has lots of little bits stuck on it. Yes, I have mixed throughly. Reply Delete

common problems with streaks are:
* not stiring the Folk art, (shaking doesn’t work)
* applying too little. You need a good amount on there and then the liquid will settle into a flat surface area. Also, you need a good amount to get a perfect print.
* don’t worry about making it perfect at first, after the print the krylon matte finish will eliminate any residual streaking.

A big one is this-- You need to make sure that your initial coat of varnish is not too hydrophobic. Krylon Matte finish is fine. I havent tested other brands for streaking, but if they are too hydrophobic the layer of folk art and ground wont dry evenly. Let me know if that helps, but you should not have any streaking, all my cards are perfectly flat and even. Delete

Thanks for the tips! I wasn't aware of that point about the varnish. I'm using another brand, but I think I've been putting it on too thick. Will post an update after my next try. Delete

Ok, I tried stirring and also applying the Tile and Digital media separately, and that seems to have solved the lumps, but I'm still getting streaks that are noticeable even after the final varnish.

The other problem I'm having is that I can't always seem to strip the ink off completely. Rarely will I get a pure white card. Mostly they turn out grey or blotchy (very faint of course) but enough to affect the print colour. The colours turn out dull because of this. Delete

Let me know if you still get streaks with Krylon. I did a simple experiment where I spread some of the mixture over Krylon and over the back of a normal magic card. The result was that Krylon did not streak, but whatever varnish was on the magic card did cause streaks.
To blank the card more easily you can take a cheap foil card, dab a little acetone on the corner of it until the foil layer starts to peel away. Then grab the foil layer and pull it off. There will be some residual glue, but you can clean that up with the acetone. This should be much easier and cleaner, although you will need a foil.
Try google "how to blank magic card" for a vid on that. Delete

Hi, I'm really looking forward to print some proxies using your method but I have a problem: i live in Italy, and I can't get the Folk Art gel; is there some sostitute you'd recommend? Reply Delete

Hi, someone else emailed me with this issue, unfortunately I havent found an alternative yet.
If you try different products and find one that works please post your results.
A few things to keep in mind:
* The product will need to be matte (if you care about doing foils)
* The product needs to be an adhesion promoter so that the Digital Ground does not peel off the card.
* It needs to have good absorption properties so that the ink will have surface area to seep into otherwise the print will look blurry.

If you don't feel like experimenting maybe you can try eBay?
Good luck Delete

First of all, thx for the patience to share with us, an gratz for your work.

I have the same problem, can't find the Folkart glass medium.

I couldnt really grasp the difference between the Folkart medium and the Golden Clear Ground purpose.

Do you have any idea of any other products that maybe a good substitute?

Does MATTE MEDIUM GOLDEN makes any sense?

Last question. Do you ever print multiple cards on the same sheet? I tried printing 9 at once, and the printer ended up scrapping some ink off around the edges on some cards. Reply Delete

Any advise on improving the resolution of prints? I did a test run today, printing onto a card primed with Folk Art & Digital Ground, but it came out really low resolution like the ink had run slightly - and some sections were still wet while others were dry.

The printer can do an acceptable job printing onto plain paper but on the card I have issues.

Any help would be appreciated!

Few things to check:
1) you are using the clear not white version of digital ground
2) latest drivers, highest print settings etc
3) the most common problem is that you're not putting on enough of the mixture. If you're doing one layer, try two thin layers. The ink needs porous area to seep into. In my tests with professional printer paper my cards end up act much sharper than the pro paper.
If you still have issues post another comment. Thanks for feedback :) Reply Delete

Hi, I'm having problems de-inking the card, basically I put some acetone on a rug and then I start working on the card, the problem is that at some point the paper of the card under the ink starts to get rough and it becomes grey (I imagine that the ink that's coming off the other parts of the card just goes there), do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong? I tried with different rugs and different quantities of acetone but I get alwais the same result. Reply Delete

I first tried with acetone and it rubbed through the paper. I then tried lacquer thinner (paint thinner) and was able to rub for a long time with significant pressure and it never rubbed through the white. However it does smudge the paint on the back of the card if contact occurs. Delete

Make sure you use PURE acetone. Don't use nail polish remover, as it contains other chemicals that can damage the surface of plain paper cards. Pure acetone will result in a cleaner appearance when you're done. Another thing -- don't spend too much time grinding away at one spot on the card. Friction + moisture = damage. Use firm, yet moderate pressure and move around on the card while de-inking to let the acetone flash away. If you keep a wet rag on same spot on the card for too long, you will get the ugly greying effect, as you loosen the fibers of the paper and effectively press the wet ink into them. Delete

I'm trying this method and I've been having issues with my printer (a Canon Pixma MX920) printing in irregular locations every time I run my A4 card stock through it. Is there any trick to getting reliable placement of the image on the page? This irregularly placement is a non-issue for transparency method, but obviously when trying to print direct it poses a huge problem :( Reply Delete

Unfortunately, it sounds like a printer issue. The few printers that I have tested never had an alignment problem. Good luck. If you do find a solution please update the comment, maybe you'll be able to help someone else. Good luck Delete

Hi, I have access to all the products except for the Krylon Matte Finish, may I ask you if this other product will work as fine as the Krylon?

Finding an alternative to the Krylon is tricky. I havent tried the product you link to.
My guess is that most finishes will work as long as they are matte.
However, there is a risk.
If the spray is too hydrophobic the layer of Digital Ground and FolkArt will not dry evenly which will cause streaks.
All you can really do is try it and see if it works. If it does work please let us know by posting a comment and I can update the FAQ and hopefully help out some more people. Delete

Thanks for your quick response, I'll try two alternatives that may work. The Hahnemuehle spray is way too expensive, more than Krylon, the other is from a local brand which seems to be the same kind of product as the Krylon, I'll send you the results as soon as possible, greetings. Delete

Hi again!! after several months of wait, finally, I was able to put my hands on the Krylon. I didn't want to try any other varnish. I tried to make my first proxy and it was better than expected but there's this thing with the resolution of the printing, I used an Epson L800 which is excellent at printing high resolution pictures, I used the templates linked here which are also superlative, so I can't understand why does this happen. Is it the amount of the products that I'm not applying in the right proportion? I applied them just as you described on your video. Thanks in advance. Delete

It might not be a resolution problem. One of the many purposes of the folkart is to absorb excess ink. If excess ink is not absorbed then the print will appear blurry and wet right after printing. To fix this you can either add a thicker mixture to the card or you can lower the amount of ink that is produced by the printer. Some epsions actually have a setting that lets you determine how much ink you can print out. Lower tier printers adjust ink settings via the "paper type" setting. Different paper types use less or more ink. You're just going to have to experiment with your printer to find the perfect balance.
There is another issue with some epsions that use pigmented ink. It seems that the rate at which the ink is applied can be adjusted on those printers and can have an effect on how pale the print is. In a few weeks I plan on updating the faq with pictures of common problems and their solutions. Until then good luck! Delete

I'm on my journey to the perfect proxy and I find your method to be superior to anything I've found so far. One thing it does not address, however, is an effective means to protect the back of the card while working with acetone and other messy substances. So, just as you've shared your technique with the world, I figured I'd share how I protect the back of my cards while working -- enter "Delicate Surface Frogtape" (http://frogtape.com/products/frogtape-delicate-surface). This new tape is now available at most hardware stores and it works wonders at protecting the back of your card. I find that using a few strips of 1.41" tape is enough to cover the entire back of the card. The glue on this tape is especially light on smooth surfaces, such as the standard UV coating on MTG cards. I apply it by putting a small strip along the top and bottom of the card (about 1/4" from the top and bottom with the excess extending beyond their respective edges -- more on this in a second) and then two vertical strips along the side edges. I try to line up the side edges as perfectly as possible to lessen the possibility that a bead of something will collect on the tape along the edge of the card. After applying the tape, I go over the entire back surface of the card, firmly pressing all of the air out of the tape and ensuring a tight seal along the edges. The strips at the top and bottom can be folded back on themselves to stick the card to a surface for working. I use transparency sheets as a smooth, movable surface for this purpose. The tape holds the card firmly in place, but gently protects the back. The transparency can be moved around so I can work on the card from different angles. When I'm done, I peel the yellow Frogtape from the back of the card and it's as good as new! I have also found that leaving the tape adhered to the card while spraying with varnish can help control some of the unwanted warping in humid environments.

Hope this helps everyone! Reply Delete

I tried the frogtape and it left a weird pattern on the back, as though it had absorbed the acetone and allowed it to mottle the back of the card. I'm having better results with scotch satin gift wrap tape with a cut-down card to protect the backs. Delete

And Image ->Adjustments->Selective color. Then adjust the black level for black and gray tones.

One of the most remarkable aspects of a magic proxy printer is its ability to work with a wide range of materials. While traditional printers are limited to printing on paper or perhaps plastic, a magic proxy printer can work with metals, ceramics, fabrics, and even organic materials. This versatility allows for a vast array of possibilities when it comes to creating objects. The applications for a magic proxy printer are extensive. From creating customized jewelry and accessories to crafting intricate sculptures and figurines, the potential uses are limited only by one's imagination. Additionally, this technology could revolutionize industries such as manufacturing, architecture, and art, as it offers a faster and more efficient way to bring designs to life. However, it is important to note that a magic proxy printer is not without its challenges. The integration of magic and technology can be a complex process, requiring advanced knowledge and skills to operate and maintain the printer. Additionally, the cost of these printers is likely to be significantly higher than traditional printers due to the incorporation of magical components. In conclusion, the magic proxy printer represents a fascinating fusion of magic and technology. It opens up a world of possibilities for creative expression and innovation. While it may still be a concept in the realm of fantasy, advancements in technology may one day make the magic proxy printer a reality..

Reviews for "Embracing the Magic of Ptoxy Printers: A Guide for Businesses"

1. John - 1 star

"The Magic Proxy Printer was a complete waste of money. The printer constantly jammed and the prints came out blurry and distorted. I followed all the instructions and even tried troubleshooting, but nothing seemed to work. The customer service was also terrible, with long wait times and unhelpful responses. Save yourself the frustration and invest in a different printer."

2. Sarah - 2 stars

"I was really excited to try out the Magic Proxy Printer, but unfortunately, it did not live up to my expectations. The quality of the prints was subpar, with faded colors and streaks on the pages. It also had compatibility issues with my computer, requiring multiple software updates and installations. Additionally, the printer was quite noisy and took a long time to start printing. Overall, I would not recommend this product."

3. Mark - 1 star

"I had high hopes for the Magic Proxy Printer, but it turned out to be a major disappointment. The printer constantly malfunctioned, often getting stuck in the middle of a print job. The ink cartridges were also expensive and needed frequent replacements. The prints themselves were low resolution and lacked clarity. Additionally, the printer had a very slow printing speed, making it highly inefficient. I regret purchasing this product."

The Revolutionary Ptoxy Printer: Unleashing the Magic of Printing