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Aztec: Return of a mighty name from SD’s distant beer past
When Claudia Faulk and John Webster opened a business here three years ago, they received a crash course in Beer Nostalgia 101. Their brewery, one of the county’s smallest, had adopted the name of a forgotten giant in the history of San Diego beer: Aztec.
“People remembered that brand,” said Faulk, “or they remembered their parents drinking that beer.”
Founded in Mexicali in 1921, the original Aztec prospered during Prohibition by slaking the thirst of its Mexican neighbors and norteamericano tourists. Even greater success followed the Volstead Act’s repeal, when Aztec moved to San Diego and became a West Coast powerhouse.
During World War II, sailors on liberty in Honolulu consumed cases of the brewery’s Famous A.B.C. Beer (“Class in a Glass”). San Diegans flocked to the brewery’s rathskeller, a tasting room brightened by murals from Jose Moya del Pino, whose work also adorns the lobby of San Francisco’s Coit Tower.
“It was a magical place,” said Renée Daniels Berg, whose grandfather was Aztec’s brewmaster in the 1930s and ’40s. “My dad would tell us stories about Aztec. He remembers everything being bigger than life.”
San Diego Beer Week 2014
This liquid circus, Friday through Nov. 16, features hundreds of events — see the official schedule at sdbw.org.
Three of Friday’s highlights:
The Lost Abbey vs. New Belgium Sour Competition, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m., Barrel Republic, 1261 Garnet Ave., San Diego
A Night with Russian River and Acoustic Ales, 4 to 11 p.m., Encinitas Ale House, 1044 S. Coast Highway, Encinitas
Dogfish Head Special Beer Night, 6 to 11 p.m., OB Noodle House, 2218 Cable St., San Diego
During San Diego Beer Week, a countywide celebration that begins Friday and runs through Nov. 16, Aztec is a bubbly reminder of past glories — and a sobering lesson in the slippery nature of success. Once, Aztec had everything: name recognition, awards, cross-border appeal, soaring sales. In 1948 alone, Aztec produced more than 200,000 barrels. It would take 65 years for another local brewery — Escondido’s Stone — to make the same claim.
Yet the Aztec empire vanished as swiftly as the head on a thin lager.
For its successors, this saga offers several lessons. Faulk focuses on one.
“They were all over the world,” she said. “They did it once. And because people contact us and remember Aztec, it seems to me that it would be easier to get to that position again. That’s inspiring to me.”
Shady business
By closing every United States brewery in 1920, Prohibition opened a door for three Southern California entrepreneurs. Edward Baker, Herbert Jaffe and William Strouse realized that their countrymen would stream south to Mexico, a land where it remained legal to drink — and brew.
The trio established Aztec in Mexicali, Baja California’s capital. While they soon captured much of northern Mexico’s beer market, not all of their products were drunk south of the border.
“There was some talk of bootlegging, bringing beer across the border as well as other spirits,” said Berg, 45, who grew up on tales of grandfather’s past as a brewing buccaneer. “It sounded a little shady.”
If not entirely legal, Aztec was strong enough to withstand natural disasters. An earthquake leveled the brewery in 1924. The owners quickly rebuilt. Torrential rain wiped out Baja California roads in 1926, halting the trucks hauling Aztec beers over jagged ridges to its Tijuana warehouse. Aztec hired Ryan Airlines — the same company that, a year later, built Charles Lindbergh’s “Spirit of St. Louis” — to airlift kegs across the rugged terrain.
In Mexico, Aztec enjoyed good sales and a good reputation; A.B.C. Beer even won a gold medal at a 1929 Spanish exposition. But the brewery’s owners, anticipating Prohibition’s demise, wanted to bring their business to the United States. Shopping for a new brewery site, they selected a tire factory in Barrio Logan.
And so Aztec became the first and, to date, only Mexican brewery to relocate to the U.S.
The brewery’s new hometown had several competitors, but none could match Aztec’s ambitions. The owners invested a fortune in remodeling the plant — $450,000, or $6.5 million in today’s dollars — and installing a cutting-edge bottling line and cold room. A.B.C.’s recipe was rejiggered and the brewmaster devised new beers: pale ales, dark lagers, stouts, bocks. These San Diego beers found new fans, from Arizona to Hawaii.
After World War II, even greater growth was expected. Gambling on the postwar expansion of California’s population, Altes, a Detroit brewery, bought Aztec in 1948.
Overnight, the beers coming out of the Barrio Logan brewery carried unfamiliar labels.
“They changed all the branding,” Faulk said. “That’s what caused the sales to plummet. People no longer had that recognition.”
And Altes had overstretched just as competitors like Schlitz, Pabst and Anheuser-Busch began assembling coast-to-coast distribution chains and blanketing the nation with TV, radio and print ads. Across the nation, regional breweries sold or folded by the hundreds. Altes peddled its plant to a competitor, National, but the new owners soon surrendered.
By 1953, there were no commercial breweries left in San Diego.
Going home
The drought lasted 34 years, ending when Bolt Brewery opened in 1987. The Fallbrook venture enjoyed only a brief run, but another brewery followed in a more prominent location. Karl Strauss, whose downtown San Diego brewpub was opened in 1989, is the area’s oldest operating brewery.
Today, the county is home to more than 90 breweries. Many, such as San Diego’s Ballast Point, were founded by veteran homebrewers. Others, such as Grantville’s Benchmark, by former employees of larger breweries.
Only one was started by a guy looking for T-shirt logos.
Webster, a graphic designer by training, planned to market his own line of T’s. On a 2008 trip to Northern California, he heard about an extinct Truckee brewery with a promising logo.
The owner of Boca Brewing’s images offered to sell them to Webster — if he also bought the brewing equipment.
Webster did. After his wife vetoed a move north — “Too cold,” Faulk said, “I’m a Southern Californian” — he shipped the tanks and tuns south to start a brewery.
But what to call this new business? In the San Diego History Center’s archives, Webster stumbled upon references to a long-gone local legend.
“This is so cool,” Webster said. “It’s a great name, it’s got great recognition, there are lots of Aztecs in San Diego with San Diego State. I couldn’t figure out why no one was using it.”
No one was — and no one would for several more years, as Webster and Faulk assembled the needed money, supplies and talent. They finally debuted in 2011, but not before Webster experienced some misgivings. What if fans of the old Aztec objected to a pair of brewing rookies hijacking this venerable name?
Didn’t happen. “Instead,” Webster said, “we got a lot of encouragement.”
Aztec is sold in three states, California, Maryland and New York, but sales lag far behind its predecessor — the estimate for 2014 is 1,000 to 1,200 barrels.
In May, the little operation shipped its first pallets of beer to a foreign country — and, in a sense, back home. Today, bottles of Aztec’s Chipotle IPA or Noche de los Muertos imperial stout are found in Mexico’s Beer Box chain store. In modest numbers.
“Sure, we are small now,” Faulk said, “but that inspires me. We should be worldwide. Once, Aztec was a force to be reckoned with.”
“A lot of that led to really good results that I don’t think I actually would have pulled off a couple of our really special beers late this year without getting that process refined,” he said. “The Huning Highlander Scotch Ale that we did debuted at Beer Premier, and we’re just finishing up (the batch) now. I needed to get a really good efficiency so I could get that beer’s starting gravity as high as I needed it and I could still get a good enough yield that it would be worthwhile. It worked out.”
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